Showing posts with label Kodiak. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Kodiak. Show all posts

Friday, July 24, 2009

City of the Future: Kodiak, Alaska


Mumbai? Shanghai? Pittsburgh? Which of these great cities will dominate the globe thirty years from now?

How about Kodiak?

Yes, Kodiak Alaska, world's most progressive city.
Located on the United States' second biggest island and surrounded by earth's richest waters, Kodiak is a deep water port par excellence, conveniently located outside the frying pan of the coming global meltdown.

Speaking of which, the rapid retreat of Arctic sea ice will make for a reliable over the top trade route very possibly in the next decade. Look at a globe and you'll see Kodiak sitting midway, like a gas station in the middle of the desert. Already the home of the nation's biggest Coast Guard base and a brand new 600 ton Marine Travelift, Kodiak has two working boat harbors and facilities to accommodate container ships, jet airplanes and rocket ships. And we have our own brewery.

Kodiak's hydroelectric and wind power generation capacities should have it at 95% renewable electricity by 2020. Add a little fish oil capacity and we could be 100% oil independant for our power needs. Take that oil-igarchy.

And the people can't be beat. A remarkably diverse community Kodiak enjoys that camaraderie that comes from being trapped on a merciless rock together. Like inmates at Alcatraz.

Or maybe the last cornered humans in a world overrun by zombie banks.

Sunday, August 24, 2008

Boatyard Politics


I am among a crowd of crewmen in coveralls at the Kodiak boatyard . Up and down ladders wearing goggles and rubber gloves and Darth Vader respirator masks, sweeping the boats with peanut grinders and paint rollers. Fighting the war on rust with epoxy paint.

The radio is on, hot with politics in these last days before the primary election. Alaska’s Rep. Don Young, whose relationship with the constituency seems increasingly hostile, recently called his fellow Alaskans the dumbest people in the world. His gripe at the time was foot shuffling over the pin cushioning of ANWR. He has also said he doesn’t feel obligated to represent anyone who didn’t vote for him. And he doesn’t really want to hear from most of the rest of us. Dick Cheney is more accessible. A handful of premier lobbyists dominate the short ironclad list of lucky citizens who are allowed ready access to Mr. Young’s office. Is there something about thirty plus years in DC that simply bleaches the love of humanity out of you?

He is certainly fed up with the red rumped baboons of the press. This week he abruptly ended an interview in DC when asked about the money that hemorrhages from his campaign fund to his criminal defense team. The question he didn’t answer was don’t the people who voted for you and gave you that money to campaign with deserve to know where it is going? (Reportedly the money goes to lawyers working to suppress potentially damaging evidence by arguing page by page with prosecutors over what is admissible.)
Mr. Young’s red faced silence is answer enough. Rep. Daddy Warbucks is sick of all these maddening questions from Little Orphan Alaska.
What he will say, publicly and repeatedly, is that he’s the bad ass who brings home the pork. So just eat your crispy bacon, kids and don’t ask papa where it comes from. You don’t want to know. And vote for me in the primary or I‘ll bite you like a mink, ingrates.

Senator Ted Stevens was on the statewide call-in radio show “Talk of Alaska” last week. Appalled by the inevitable questions about his own legal troubles, Senator Stevens said he had been traveling the state for a month and hadn’t taken so many questions on the subject. When it was pointed out that to that point he had only taken two questions Mr. Stevens said that’s more than he’s heard over the last month. What this says about the Senator’s staff is troubling. Is there a television in the closet where they store him?
This election we are being asked to vote for the institution of Ted Stevens rather than the man, basing our allegiance solely on pounds of bacon delivered to the state. Very few Alaskans would deny that Uncle Ted has grown himself into a legislative behemoth over the years. But a question must now be asked. How much of the institution that is Ted Stevens now a hollowed out shell with staffers and lobbyists inside, pulling levers? How little does the Senator himself really understand, and what is his actual ability level, given his age? He has given “faith” as his reason to not worry about the prospect of spending his late eighties in a federal prison. Faith is what you have when understanding is beyond you.
Many Alaskans used the word “sad” to describe Uncle Ted’s recent indictment. It is sad. About a decade ago, at the time when our senior senator should have retired in honor and taken his place among the great Alaskans, his age made him susceptible to manipulation. Staffers and lobbyists (the line is hazy),as well as family members, began to run the institution of Ted Stevens as a cash cow, using it to steer wealth by setting up real estate deals and consulting contracts, distributing public resources and granting no-bid contracts. I do feel bad for the Senator. Like Britney, ultimately I blame his family for allowing, and even causing, Ted’s tarnishing. Stevens’ own family should have protected him and his legacy rather than taken advantage of him in his weakness. When the institution is out of office will he be abandoned by those misusing him now? When he was at his zenith Senator Stevens was a strong voice for Alaska, for her villages, her native people, building her infrastructure so Alaska can stand on her own two feet. But a Wormtongue whispers at Théoden’s ear.

At home in the Magnificent Shack I scrub at the paint tattoos on my arms as I watch John McCain on TV. McCain is holding a microphone uncomfortably against his chest in the middle of an open stage at a sport venue. His eyes are locked on the teleprompter set up in the middle of the stage. The downward gaze this forces on him makes him seem school boyishly ashamed.
Maybe he is.
Didn’t he seem much younger eight years ago? Many of us cheered as Annakin McCain used the force of straight talk to disarm darker opponents in the Republican primaries. Until he met up with Darth Rove and was left a smoking carcass to be stepped over by the child-man Bush. The creepy McZombie that rose from that scouring has literally embraced the dark side, falling lockstep behind Cheney and Rumsfeld in their folly. And now we see he has studied his Rove as well. His campaign is rapidly becoming more sinister. His primary offensive weapon is the unsupportable catchphrase, things like “My opponent would rather win an election and lose a war…” He is referring to the success of the “surge” in Iraq and Senator Obama’s opposition to it, along with everything about the invasion of that country. Mr. Obama’s position all along is that we would have profited greatly by focusing our efforts on Afghanistan and bin Laden. And, in retrospect, recklessly pursuing a second front war in Iraq based on lies and faulty information, without a long term plan, resulting in untold needless deaths and shattering families and farms and futures both in the middle east and America, well, it still seems like a sketchy idea. The fact that General Petraeus and the strong true men and women of our armed forces have endured to the point of success despite having been served so poorly and dishonestly by civilians like Rumsfeld and Cheney does not mean a civilian like Mr. McCain gets to take the credit. They are like the bumbling defense of a football team that got way behind, but was bailed out by a surging offense. In fact every member of Congress who was led like a dog to the WMD trough owes a debt to our soldiers. We owe them better plays and better players on our side of the ball. The second half is coming and it’s in Afghanistan. The offense is going to be tired. They’ve been on the field the whole game. McCain is just a loyal assistant coach using the same playbook and players. The fact that he has been saying the surge should be applied to Afghanistan and implying that Mr. Obama would oppose it since he opposed the first one does not bode well. Anyone in uniform can tell you the urban warfare of the surge will not work in the wilds of the Afghan bush. You can be sure that both the CIA and our Special Forces have been there long enough to know how to win. And if Mr. McCain is saying we need more of our overextended assets in Afghanistan then he is agreeing with what Mr. Obama has been saying all along.

Mr. Obama, on another stage (sans prompter), seeming tired and a little pissed off, looked up into the audience and pointedly promised to never question Mr. McCain’s patriotism. Obama is a thoughtful and dignified man, which I value, but I think many of us liked the look in his eye then. A definite what-did-you-just-say-about-my-mother look.

I watch McCain rush through his prompted lines as though he were giving a book report to the class. He pauses for emphasis only when he addresses Mr. Obama’s recent promise to never question McCain’s patriotism and his inference that McCain had questioned his.

“Let me be very clear: I am not questioning his patriotism. I am questioning his judgment. I am questioning his judgment.”

This is clearly not true.
Anyone who would rather see his country lose a war than lose an election himself is not exactly Sergeant York. If fact, he would have to be completely lacking in morals. I’m sure Mr. McCain knows this is not the case.

It doesn’t matter. McCain is throwing up fear bombs and hoping the voters will scatter. Divide and Conquer is Rule #1 in the Rove playbook.

Tuesday, July 8, 2008

Mr Terry Goes to Town Chapter Three


On a boat off Cape Chiniak chugging out to the Gulf of Alaska’s deep water:
I am among Four Fishermen baiting up to an Ipod’s amplified thump.
The squid is circling hypnotically into my tub. We bait like robots. Coil coil, hook-squid, coil coil, hook-squid, ever onward into infinity. Our skipper had team shirts made with a Mobius strip logo: the twisted circle with a single side rolling into itself forever. Just like my life. I chuckle to myself. My friends barely glance up; by now they assume I am quite insane.
My right foot is hooked under the baiting table and I am slouched slightly into my tub to account for the roll of the boat in the heavy swell. My two hands, Lefty and the Troublemaker, do all the work on autopilot, leaving me plenty of time to wander through the junkyard of my mind, picking up rusty pieces with moving parts, trying to remember how they once fit together. Fatigue and the Mobius hours of spinning repetition can unlock lost dreams and memories better than years of Manhattan psychotherapy. The conscious mind relaxes, and finally passes out. I see myself sitting on the street corner of a brick house neighborhood that I only visit in my dreams. I blink, and now I’m looking out the window of the Hilton Towers hotel in Washington DC.
This is a memory. My Kodiak City Council personality went to Washington in March. Though I don’t like cigarettes I’ve taken a room on the smoker’s floor (#7), knowing instinctively that it will be a haven for malcontents. Sure enough, it is midnight and my neighbor is having a drunken debate with his roommate on the state of the rate of inflation as it relates to segregation mutations…I’m not sure. An ambulance drowns them out. I’m sitting cross legged on the wide windowsill looking down on Connecticut Avenue. I have all my windows wide open as I always do, because there is something wrong with hotel air. Despite the smog I’d rather breathe air that’s been somewhere than the tired refiltered gas running through the hotel’s climate control system. Of course I’m also smoking a cigar.
Suddenly I feel hungry and I jump the elevator to the street and point my deck slippers downhill.
Gravity pulls me down Connecticut, past steak houses and Thai buffets, all closed. A preppy looking whiskey grill called “Timberlake’s” looks marginally open, with slumpers at the bar and an end-of-her shift waitress who gives me a hostile glance as I loiter outside. I move on. The sidewalk takes me downstreet to a white and black sign that says “Odeon Café”. I squint through the window. Despite the “closed” sign a number of couples are talking over half full glasses of red wine. An elderly man with a hat is eating mussels and spaghetti. A smell of good olive oil and hot bread is seeping under the door. I ignore the sign and pull at the door handle gently, like a safecracker. It makes that locked glass door sound of rejection: clatter, thunk: sorry buddy. I hesitate. The next moments are crucial. I give the interior one more look: nodding my head philosophically, I slowly turn, hungry, yes, but what choice do I have but to return to the cold hard foodless street…From the corner of my eye I see dark haired men point to me and shrug. One waves at me and unlocks the door.
“You are hungry?” he asks with remarkable simplicity.
“Yes.”
He waves me to a small table and throws down a basket of fresh bread.
“Wine?” He opens a menu. I point to a likely red and on impulse order linguine with clams before he can get away. The noodles are wonderful. The flavor of sweet clams shines through without being dominated by garlic or green herbs. The platter is ringed with fresh steamers: chewy little bites of nirvana. I have accidentally ordered an entire bottle of wine, which I purposefully consume.
Afterward I strike up a conversation with one of the owners. He asks why I am in Washington and I tell him I’m here to shake the pillars of heaven: to petition our three Alaska fedreps for justice. I would find out the next day that our senior statesmen, Stevens and Young, were out of town at the one time of year Alaskans come to DC to talk to them.
“What do you have for them?” He pushes an Italian beer across the bar.
“Complaints, mostly”
“No no. In this town you must bring something. Can you provide money, or votes or newspaper stories?”
“Not money, that’s for sure.”
“Then offer the other. A good story is better than money.”
I thank him as he locks the door behind me. I walk slowly back to my room thinking about my story. Halfway back I stop in front of a converted brownstone with a sign that says “Russia House”. Irresistible. I go inside.
NEXT: I visit Senator Murkowski and infiltrate the Capitol.